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Op woensdag 19 oktober 2005 17:26 schreef PatrickAlavi het volgende:Ok dan wacht ik toch even...
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Ik binnenkort wel naar duijvestein, maar ik ga niet gelijk een board kopen. Eerst maar ff kijken wat ze hebben en wat zij denken dat goed is...
Maar ik wacht dan nog wel ff op Kentaro.
Pff present. Moest naar Bedum, die klanten gaan ook steeds verder weg zitten. 550 km heen en weer, ik had bijna in Oostenrijk kunnen zitten.
Ik heb zelf een Custom X en ik ben er heel tevreden over. Het is een Custom maar dan van de topmaterialen wat hem lichter en stijver maakt. Ik denk dat het ook wel goed aansluit bij wat je wil. Ik hem hem alleen indoor getest, maar ik ben er van overtuigt dat het off-piste als een trein gaat. Gezien je gewicht denk ik dat een 1.60 een goede lengte zal zijn.
Overgens is de Malolo zeker het overwege waard als je je wat meer op off piste wil toeleggen en je schijnt op de piste maar weinig in te leveren, maar daar horen we binnenkort meer over.. Oja, Ik zou met jouw schoenmaat zeker geen (mid) wide board nemen, dat is zonde. Dat voeten verhaal van je is wel vreemd, ik heb een stukje voor je geknipt en geplakt. Misschien heb je daar wat aan.
1. Choosing a Boot
a. Get what fits your foot the best. People make recommendations all the time, but in the end you're the only one who can decide what works for you. Keep in mind, what may work for someone else may not work for you. Always remember FUNCTION over fashion.
b. Flex: Personal Preference. Most of the time people suggest that if you're mainly freeriding that you should go with a stiffer more supportive boot and that if you're mainly riding park that you should go with a softer flexier boot. This may not be the case 100% of the time, hence personal preference.
c. Lacing: Personal Preference. Aside from traditional laces, I'd have to say Speed Zone is the best alternative out there. Others may like BOA, etc. Everything has it's flaws and shit will break from time to time. Just because it happened to someone's brother's sister's boyfriend's aunt's nephew doesn't mean it will definitely happen to you i.e. Getting stuck in BOA boots.
2. Sizing
a. Shoe Size vs. Boot Size: Most of the time people oversize their sneakers for comfort. You have to keep in mind that your snowboard boot is NOT supposed to fit like your shoes. Other sizing will also affect your boot size, which I will go further into detail below.
b. Mondopoint: Most of the time you will find another number along with US sizing. This is mondopoint. In order to convert, you merely have to add the two mondopoint numbers together to give you a rough equivalent to US sizing i.e. 26.0 MP : 2 + 6 = 8.0 US. US sizing is more accurate than mondopoint. Towards the lower (7-8 US) and higher (11-12 US) end of the mondopoint sizing spectrum you're missing two sizes. The reason behind this is because the mondopoint scale is a bit staggered from the US scale.
c. Brannock: This is probably the best starting point that you have in terms of finding out your size. There are three measurements, Overall Length, Arch Length, and Width. In some cases your arch length might be longer than your overall length. In this case, I would start with a boot at a size right between your arch length and overall length. If that is still too tight, size up to your arch length.
3. Fit
a. Shell Fit: This is a good and easy way to find out what type of fit you want. There are two types of fits, Comfort and Performance.
1. Remove the liner from the boot.
2. Put your foot inside of the shell sliding your foot so your toes are touching the end.
3. Use your fingers to measure the space between your heel and back of the shell.
1 Finger Space: Performance fit. This is going to fit pretty snug out of the box. Even after the boot breaks in, the boot will still be super supportive. This may not be preferred for those of you who only get out a couple times a season.
2 Finger Spaces: Comfort fit. Like any boot, it will fit snug out of the box, but after it breaks in you will notice it is not nearly as snug as it was previously.
3+ Finger Spaces: SOFA KING WE TODD IT!
b. Generally you want the boot to fit snug overall because you must consider BREAK IN. Depending on the type of boot and liner, the boot will break in considerably. "If the boot were a little bit bigger, it would fit perfectly." That's what you want to think when you're in the shop trying on boots. Almost all boots will have a built in foward lean. Boots are not designed to fit correctly as you're standing straight up. Initially, you want your toes to be right at the end of the boot. You don't want them curled or jammed at the end. As you flex into the boot your heel will slide all the way into the heel pocket bringing your toes slightly back from the end. This is the type of fit you should look for. You also want to make sure you have good support in your heel. Make sure the boot is nice and snug around your ankles now, so when the boot breaks in you don't get heel lift.
4. Heat Molding
a. This is a great way to make boots that fit overly snug fit much better. You can also use it to alleviate some fit problems i.e. Pressure points, etc.
b. Which boots are heat moldable? Make sure they have an EVA liner. Not all EVA liners are necessarily designed to be heat molded so inquire futher at the shop when you're trying on boots.
c. How is it done? Manufacturers will supply dealers with their particular heat molding device. They blow heat at a specific preset temperature into the boot causing the foam to become soft and expand. When you get this done, use the socks that you will be using when you ride. After you lace the boot, flex the boot often as you wait for it to cool. As the foam cools it will contract around the shape of your foot giving you more of a custom fit. Don't forget to remove the footbeds when you heat mold the boot. Put them back in after they're done heating. This will prevent any damage to the footbed and it will also allow more of the liner to be heated.
d. Toe Caps: These are basically foam caps that cover your toes. These are used to blow out the toe box to give added space. Put these on your feet directly with your sock over it so you don't get a ridge imprinted into your liner.
5. Footbeds
a. These are a must. The majority of stock insoles aren't that great. Aftermarket insoles will provide more support, resulting in increased comfort and stability within the boot. Full on custom is the way to go, but can get extremely pricey depending on where you get it done. If you don't have the cash for it, you can get a decent insole for roughly $30 USD. If you can get a sport orthodic, even better.