Zelf carbon maken

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Op zondag 1 januari 2006 23:32 schreef _Omicron_ het volgende:

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Carbon doe je toch met poly-hars erbij (of epoxy) ?

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Op maandag 2 januari 2006 04:48 schreef PNG het volgende:
Astra-verbouwing-verhaal.

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Op maandag 2 januari 2006 03:14 schreef Googolplexian het volgende:

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en ook dat klopt helemaal behalve dan dat cf niet afgewerkt hoeft te worden voor de racerij

heb JIJ geen how-to van carbon fibre?

zo te lezen heb je verstand van het materiaal

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Composite Classroom
We Made Some Strong, Light, And Trick-Looking Carbon Fiber Panels In Our Garage

By Tony Nausieda
Photography: Tony Nausieda

Bet you never dreamed you’d see a carbon-fiber how-to story in the pages of Car Craft! Don’t worry; we haven’t fallen victim to the import craze, and we’re certainly not going high-buck on you. We’re not totally clueless. We invested a total of $127 into this project, and we made some strong, light, and trick-looking carbon fiber panels in our garage. Care to read on?

There’s an aura surrounding composite panels that keeps them shrouded in mystery from most car guys. Certain composite-manufacturing processes do qualify as “black arts,” but laying up simple carbon-fiber panels doesn’t require an advanced degree or an enormous pile of cash.

We kept the panel design simple for this story because it was our first crack at fabricating carbon fiber. Learning to lay up flat panels is the best way to start because there’s no need for a complicated mold—all you need is a clean and scratch-free piece of glass. Guided by the information in this story, you can create a set of door panels or a switch/gauge panel for that sexy street machine in your life. Thanks in part to help from Ivan Nausieda (proof that younger brothers are good for something), this project turned out so well that we’re planning to make a carbon dash cluster for our Chevelle. We’ll be sure to show you that project in the future—provided we can make it look as good as these flat panels.




Here’s what makes it all happen. A composite material is composed of a matrix material and a reinforcement material. Carbon fiber uses woven strands of carbon as the reinforcement and an epoxy as the matrix. The carbon reinforcement carries most of the load burden when the material is bent and stretched, and the epoxy transfers the load from fiber to fiber to evenly distribute that load. Some composites use a thermosetting polymer as a matrix material and must be oven-baked to cure, but the epoxy we used cures with a liquid hardener.


First, clear a large, clean work space. You want it as spotless as possible; trapped dust and dirt look pretty lame in composite panels. Preparing the mold is simple when you’re fabricating flat panels. We placed our glass sheet on a table, then sprayed it with glass cleaner to make sure it was clean. The next step is to apply the mold release so the carbon won’t stick to the mold after it’s cured. Apply the release in a swirl pattern, like you’re waxing a car, and buff off the haze after it dries. For a new mold, repeat the waxing process at least 4 times. On the final coat, buff the glass as if you were detailing a 100-point show car, because every imperfection (including dried wax residue) will show up in the carbon’s surface. Preparing a good mold is the key to turning out flawless panels.


Unroll as much carbon cloth as you need. Be sure to allow for 2 inches of extra cloth in every direction, because the fiber strands on the edges are likely to distort—you’ll want to trim those edges off after the panel has cured. Lay out the piece you want to cut with low-tack masking tape. Keep in mind that you can cut the carbon at either 90- or 45-degree angles (on a bias). Bias cuts look cooler but usually waste more material—it’s your choice. Cut down the center of the tape lines so the carbon strands don’t unravel. Even with the low-tack tape, we still pulled off the outer two strands of carbon when we removed the tape after cutting out the cloth. That’s why we recommend you cut extra material! Unroll some of the clear plastic sheet and cut out a piece that’s approximately 1 foot larger in all directions than your carbon. Lay the carbon flat on top of this plastic sheet.


A good rule of thumb when mixing the epoxy/hardener is to use one part epoxy to one part carbon cloth, by weight. We didn’t have an accurate scale around the shop, but fortunately there’s an approximation that makes measuring easier: 1 fluid ounce (volume) of epoxy weighs about 1 ounce. We bought a few disposable graduated measuring cups from U.S. Composites, so it was easy to measure the epoxy in fluid ounces. The carbon cloth we purchased was 5.7 ounces (weight) per square yard. We cut a 10x10-inch piece of carbon, and although we didn’t have a scale, we were able to calculate its weight by knowing a square yard of this material weighed 5.7 ounces.


Using this equation, our carbon piece weighed 0.44 ounce, so we combined 0.33 fluid ounce of epoxy with 0.11 fluid ounce of hardener (three parts epoxy to one part hardener). Stir the epoxy for a few minutes.


Pour some of the epoxy onto the carbon cloth that you laid on the plastic sheet. Use the Bondo squeegee to carefully saturate the carbon with epoxy, spreading the epoxy from the center of the carbon to the edges. Add the rest of the epoxy and squeegee until the carbon is completely smooth and “wet” with epoxy. Carry the carbon and the plastic sheet over to your glass mold, flip it over on the glass (carbon-side down), and continue to squeegee the carbon through the plastic sheet.


Carefully peel the plastic sheet off the carbon, and squeegee off the excess epoxy, making sure there aren’t any dry areas on the carbon. Any dry spots or air bubbles will appear as “pinholes” in the finished carbon panel, so take your time. Let the epoxy dry (this will take a few hours—we came back the next morning to finish the project).


You have a few options when it comes to reinforcing the carbon-fiber layer. “Sandwich core” construction is the most rigid reinforcement. This involves a layer of fibrous material sandwiched between the carbon outer layer and a fiberglass backing. We didn’t need a panel that was very rigid (we built a radio block off-plate/ switch panel for our Chevelle), so instead we opted to laminate the back of the carbon with two layers of fiberglass weave. The finished panel is plenty strong, but not as rigid as a sandwich-core construction. Lay out and cut two or more pieces of fiberglass using the low-tack masking tape, so each piece is the same size as the carbon fiber. We cut each fiberglass piece at a slightly different bias so the weaves were at different angles. This adds panel strength because the fibers “pull” in more directions when the panel is loaded.


The fiberglass cloth also gets saturated with epoxy in the same proportion as the carbon cloth (1:1 by weight). Measure and mix the correct amount of epoxy and hardener and place your fiberglass cloth atop another piece of plastic sheet. Before you transfer the ’glass onto the dry carbon-fiber sheet, wet the carbon with a little epoxy to help the ’glass stick to it. Then flip the plastic sheet over and transfer the fiberglass onto the carbon fiber. Squeegee in the same manner as you did the carbon fiber. Let the ’glass dry, and repeat the process with your other fiberglass layer(s).


After all the laminates are applied and everything has dried, it’s time to reap the rewards of your work! Pop the carbon fiber panel off the glass mold. We needed to use a razor blade to “encourage” the carbon to come off the glass, but the panel came off without incident (this is why we applied five coats of mold release). The panel looks awesome, and it’s amazingly resilient and strong. We trimmed it with a sheetmetal shear, but it’s possible to cut these thin panels with scissors if you’re careful. Larger panels require a cutoff wheel or the like, but use respiratory protection and wear gloves because the dust is downright nasty. Don’t even think of grinding on your panel near open flames, because the airborne carbon dust will ignite!

Bron: Carcraft.com

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Op woensdag 4 januari 2006 11:23 schreef Googolplexian het volgende:
nu nog zo'n how-to over hoe je mooie mallen maakt en dan zijn we er

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Op woensdag 4 januari 2006 12:39 schreef Googolplexian het volgende:

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eerste link werkt niet

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Op woensdag 4 januari 2006 12:39 schreef Googolplexian het volgende:

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eerste link werkt niet

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Op woensdag 4 januari 2006 20:41 schreef Mad-Matt het volgende:
Beetje creatief iemand gaat wat verder en maakt dit:

[afbeelding]

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Op donderdag 5 januari 2006 23:22 schreef Repeat het volgende:
carbon panelen ed begrijp ik nu wel....
maar hoe maak je dan precies dat extreem sterke, maar toch lichte carbon wat je kan gebruiken in frames ed?

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Op vrijdag 6 januari 2006 14:24 schreef -Shibby- het volgende:
Je kan ook nog denken aan triax, 3 lagen op b.v. -45 0 +45 graden, is 1 weefsel met 3 lagen. En in de hoek te krijgen die voor jouw het sterkste resultaat geeft.

En daarnaast denk ik dat je met alleen kwasten dus, op de "amateur" manier geen extreem sterke componenten kan gaan/moet gaan maken. Er zit dan teveel epoxy in (zwaar), en teveel tussen de verschillende weefsels. Wat niet een supersterk geheel geeft.

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Op vrijdag 6 januari 2006 14:24 schreef -Shibby- het volgende:
Je kan ook nog denken aan triax, 3 lagen op b.v. -45 0 +45 graden, is 1 weefsel met 3 lagen. En in de hoek te krijgen die voor jouw het sterkste resultaat geeft.

En daarnaast denk ik dat je met alleen kwasten dus, op de "amateur" manier geen extreem sterke componenten kan gaan/moet gaan maken. Er zit dan teveel epoxy in (zwaar), en teveel tussen de verschillende weefsels. Wat niet een supersterk geheel geeft.

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Op maandag 9 januari 2006 20:19 schreef Sterke_Yerke het volgende:
Nou is er al iemand geweest die daadwerkelijk carbon gemaakt heeft van glasvezel?

Dan moet je echt wel master der chemie zijn. Het is net als of je van een stuk ijzer + goudverf een stuk goud maakt