Jeans #49 - 40 oz! "Lijkt me stug"... "Zijn ze ook!"

3x1 vs. 2x1 weave - This refers to the number of weft threads per warp thread. Most denims have been traditionally 3x1 weaves, though lighter weight denims (under 10.5 ounces/sqare yard) often use the 2x1 configuration.
Acid washing - The quick definition can be summed up in one word, "horrible". Also called "Snow wash". This technique reared it head up in Italy in the late 80s. Basically you soak your pumice stones in bleach and tumble them with the jeans. Then neutralise.
Broken Twill - Instead of the twill running to the right or left, broken twill jeans (traditionally considered the cowboy-preferred denim) contain no distinct direction of weave. The weave is instead alternated right and left - the end effect resembles a random zig-zag. Wrangler made the first broken twill jeans in 1964. Broken Twill was designed to combat the twisting effect that was a characteristic regular twill (and considered a 'fault' by many at the time). By going on both directions, the tension in the yarns is balanced in Broken Twill.
Left Hand Twill - This refers to the direction that the denim is woven. Left hand twill denim is softer to the touch than right hand twill, and was originally used by Lee denim. Now used by other denim companies such as 45rpm, Kunna, and Lee Japan. Left hand twill is easy to spot, as the weft threads appear to move upward and to the left as opposed to upward and to the right.
Overdye - Basically dyeing over the fabric or jeans to add another tone of colour. Most often used is a 'yellowy' overdye to create a 'dirty' look. Also can be applied with spraygun or paintbrush for local colouring (ie. if you wanted just 'dirty knees').
Right Hand Twill - This refers to the direction that the denim is woven. The opposite of Left Hand twill, this weave is much more common, as almost all jeans are woven with right hand twill. The weft (filler) threads will be visible in upward-right diagonal lines on right-hand twill jeans.
Rope Dying - The best method of dying denim, most (should be all) upscale denim manufacturers use this method. It refers to twisting the threads of yard into a rope-like shape, then dipping the rope into a bath of indigo. It is often dipped multiple times - the more bathing of the yarn, the darker the shade.
Sanforizing - Sanforizing denim is a method of stretching and manipulating the cloth in the factory prior to any washing so that any shrinking during future washes will be minimalized. It is important to note if your raw jeans are sanforized or not before determining what size to buy, non-sanforized jeans will shrink 7-10%, while sanforized jeans will shrink 1-5%. It is often advised to give non-sanforized jeans a warm soak before wearing them to get the shrinking done before you create wear marks on the jeans.
Selvage (Selvedge) - Selvage and selvedge mean exactly the same thing - different companies spell it differently and there apparently is no "right" way to spell it. It comes from the phrase "self-edge" which refers to the edge being finished by the loom instead of sewn together after weaving. Selvage is the term commonly used to refer to denim that has been produced on a shuttle loom. Since the amount of fabric produced from a shuttle loom is significantly narrower than a projectile (wide) loom, the cotton consumption is higher and the time required is greater. In selvage jeans, you will see the actual edge of the fabric where the weaving stops and is finished by the loom, as opposed to denim woven on a projectile loom, where the fabric has been cut off at the ends. The "redline" selvage is Levi's signature and was used in all their jeans up to 1982, before Cone Mills nixed them for the more modern projectile looms, which are faster and much more efficient.
Unwashed denim - Denim that is not washed before it is sold to the customer (although some companies will sell a one-wash jean). It is stiff, and depending on the weight can feel as though you're walking in sheet-metal. It will also be very dark and will sometimes appear black. Traditionally, all jeans were sold unwashed and it was up to the customer to break them in.
Warp Thread - Warp threads are the indigo-dyed thread. Also commonly called "surface threads," as they account for a majority of the thread you see on the surface. It is the opposite on the underside of the jeans, where the weft (filler) threads are more visible, and the warp threads are in the minority. They are woven in and out of the weft thread vertically to create the denim twill.
Weft (Filler) Thread - Weft, or filler, threads are traditionally ecru-colored, however many companies now bleach their weft threads or dye them. The weft is visible mostly on the underside of the denim, but resemble diagonal stripes on the surface. They are woven in and out of the warp threads horizontally to create the denim twill.
Whiskering - These are the crease lines around the crotch. Industrially these can be done with laser, sandblasting, machine sanding, handsanding and abrasive rods. Same techniques are used for 'knee whiskers' (whiskers on the sides of knees) and 'honeycombs' (crease marks on the back of the knee).

M1stral	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 21:46
	Vorige delen: Topicreeks: Jeans SPOILER 3x1 vs. 2x1 weave - This refers to the number of weft threads per warp thread. Most denims have been traditionally 3x1 weaves, though lighter weight denims (under 10.5 ounces/sqare yard) often use the 2x1 configuration. Acid washing - The quick definition can be summed up in one word, "horrible". Also called "Snow wash". This technique reared it head up in Italy in the late 80s. Basically you soak your pumice stones in bleach and tumble them with the jeans. Then neutralise. Broken Twill - Instead of the twill running to the right or left, broken twill jeans (traditionally considered the cowboy-preferred denim) contain no distinct direction of weave. The weave is instead alternated right and left - the end effect resembles a random zig-zag. Wrangler made the first broken twill jeans in 1964. Broken Twill was designed to combat the twisting effect that was a characteristic regular twill (and considered a 'fault' by many at the time). By going on both directions, the tension in the yarns is balanced in Broken Twill. Left Hand Twill - This refers to the direction that the denim is woven. Left hand twill denim is softer to the touch than right hand twill, and was originally used by Lee denim. Now used by other denim companies such as 45rpm, Kunna, and Lee Japan. Left hand twill is easy to spot, as the weft threads appear to move upward and to the left as opposed to upward and to the right. Overdye - Basically dyeing over the fabric or jeans to add another tone of colour. Most often used is a 'yellowy' overdye to create a 'dirty' look. Also can be applied with spraygun or paintbrush for local colouring (ie. if you wanted just 'dirty knees'). Right Hand Twill - This refers to the direction that the denim is woven. The opposite of Left Hand twill, this weave is much more common, as almost all jeans are woven with right hand twill. The weft (filler) threads will be visible in upward-right diagonal lines on right-hand twill jeans. Rope Dying - The best method of dying denim, most (should be all) upscale denim manufacturers use this method. It refers to twisting the threads of yard into a rope-like shape, then dipping the rope into a bath of indigo. It is often dipped multiple times - the more bathing of the yarn, the darker the shade. Sanforizing - Sanforizing denim is a method of stretching and manipulating the cloth in the factory prior to any washing so that any shrinking during future washes will be minimalized. It is important to note if your raw jeans are sanforized or not before determining what size to buy, non-sanforized jeans will shrink 7-10%, while sanforized jeans will shrink 1-5%. It is often advised to give non-sanforized jeans a warm soak before wearing them to get the shrinking done before you create wear marks on the jeans. Selvage (Selvedge) - Selvage and selvedge mean exactly the same thing - different companies spell it differently and there apparently is no "right" way to spell it. It comes from the phrase "self-edge" which refers to the edge being finished by the loom instead of sewn together after weaving. Selvage is the term commonly used to refer to denim that has been produced on a shuttle loom. Since the amount of fabric produced from a shuttle loom is significantly narrower than a projectile (wide) loom, the cotton consumption is higher and the time required is greater. In selvage jeans, you will see the actual edge of the fabric where the weaving stops and is finished by the loom, as opposed to denim woven on a projectile loom, where the fabric has been cut off at the ends. The "redline" selvage is Levi's signature and was used in all their jeans up to 1982, before Cone Mills nixed them for the more modern projectile looms, which are faster and much more efficient. Unwashed denim - Denim that is not washed before it is sold to the customer (although some companies will sell a one-wash jean). It is stiff, and depending on the weight can feel as though you're walking in sheet-metal. It will also be very dark and will sometimes appear black. Traditionally, all jeans were sold unwashed and it was up to the customer to break them in. Warp Thread - Warp threads are the indigo-dyed thread. Also commonly called "surface threads," as they account for a majority of the thread you see on the surface. It is the opposite on the underside of the jeans, where the weft (filler) threads are more visible, and the warp threads are in the minority. They are woven in and out of the weft thread vertically to create the denim twill. Weft (Filler) Thread - Weft, or filler, threads are traditionally ecru-colored, however many companies now bleach their weft threads or dye them. The weft is visible mostly on the underside of the denim, but resemble diagonal stripes on the surface. They are woven in and out of the warp threads horizontally to create the denim twill. Whiskering - These are the crease lines around the crotch. Industrially these can be done with laser, sandblasting, machine sanding, handsanding and abrasive rods. Same techniques are used for 'knee whiskers' (whiskers on the sides of knees) and 'honeycombs' (crease marks on the back of the knee). quote: Op donderdag 17 maart 2011 23:52 schreef BigSmurf het volgende: De meesten die hier regelmatig posten dragen dry denim, oftewel denim wat onbewerkt is. Er zit geen wassing overheen, en door de broek heel lang te dragen en niet te wassen (pas na een hele tijd) creëer je zelf de slijtage, waardoor je dus een eigen "wassing" creëert. De meeste dry's hebben echter al wel een proces achter de rug om de krimp eruit te krijgen. Dit noemt men sanforized denim. Van deze broeken koop je over het algemeen een waistmaat die TTS (True To Size) is, of die 1 of zelfs 2 maten kleiner is, omdat sommige merken enorm uitlopen, en qua inseam (lengte) ook TTS of 1 maat langer (voor eventuele "rest"krimp of omdat je expres een omslag/cuff wil maken). Mooi voorbeeld hiervan is APC, mensen kopen die soms zo smal qua waist dat de bovenste knoop niet eens dicht kan. Na een paar dagen/weken dragen lopen ze dan enorm uit, soms wel 2 - 3 waistmaten. Andere merken lopen weer minder uit, maar dry's doen dat over het algemeen altijd wel. De broeken die te groot gekocht worden zijn unsanforized en worden over het algemeen shrink to fit genoemd, Levi heeft zelfs een hele STF lijn. Deze zijn helemaal niet bewerkt, ook niet één keer gewassen, waardoor ze bij de eerste keer wassen enorm krimpen, 2 - 3 maten is geen uitzondering. Door deze bij aankoop te "soaken" haal je de krimp eruit, dit kan door ze gewoon in een wasbak met warm water te leggen voor een tijdje, maar ook door met de broek aan in bad te gaan zitten en hem dan rond je lichaam te laten krimpen. Even in een notendop wat jeans-informatie. Projecten per 25-02-2012! Ali_Ilegali - Edwin ED-67, Samurai S5000GX-K Wind, Momotaro X N&F, Red Cloud S400, Oldblue Co. 23oz Atta-boy - APC Petit Standard, Samurai S5000VX BigSmurf - Momotaro 0201, ALD Prescott Broken Twill, Nudie Even Steven Dry Grey, Blaxje - N&F WeirdGuy Selvedge Chino, A.P.C New Standard, Nudie Thin Finn Dry Selvedge, Nudie Thin Finn Dry Black Coated Bobr - ALD Prescott Broken Twill Bokkepoot - Nudie Masa , ALD Prescott Broken Twill, Samurai S5000GX-M Water, Nudie Regular Ralf Dry Selvedge. Bokkepoots Broertje - Nudie Thin finn Dry Black Coated , Nudie Straight Sven Dry Black Selvage Bokkepoots Broer - Levi 501 STF Indigo, Artist Denim Brummi3_NL - Momotaro 0701, ALD Frontier BB, Nudie Lab 16 BB, Thin Finn Dry Grey Coated. Cpt. - A.P.C. New Standard DeGrote - Denham Skin VJS don-diablo - Momotaro 0201, Nudie Average Joe Dry Red Selvage DutchErrorist - Levi 501 STF, en meer STF's! Gaijin - Nudie Slim Jim Organic Dry Dark. JopJuh - Tellason 15.5 oz Kuroki Denim. Kasanova_ - N&F Slim Guy Nep Selvage, Nudie Grim Tim Red Selvage. M1stral - Momotaro 0201, 0701, 0702 en G007. Neraice - Nudie Slim Jim Organic Dry Embu. Nezhi - Nudie Slim Jim Organic Dry Dark. One_conundrum - Red Cloud S400 17oz. Patroon - Nudie Average Joe Dry Dirt Organic, Nudie Slim Jim Dry Black Coated SatanicWarrior - Pace P-006 Dry Selvage, Nudie Average Joe Dry Selvage, Nudie Grim Tim Dry Stretch Selvage. Sinji - Samurai 710xx T_Fluff - Edwin Nashville, ALD Frontier en Artist Denim ThePlaneteer - Edwin Nashville , Edwin ED-47 Rainbow selvage Zwartemarktplaats: Denhram Grade Virgin Regular, Nudie Jeans Slim Jim Dry Organic Ecru Embo, Cheap Monday premium tight selvedge , Cheap Monday Autobahn Straight Selvedge, H&M Sliq Unwashed, Levis 504. xSanjay - Nudie Thin Finn Dry Liquid Indigo, Naked & Famous Natural Indigo. RinkeNL - LVC 67 505, Samurai S710XX • Denim archive • Denim care by indigofan • Denim terminology by styleforum • Getting the vintage look • Superdenim encyclopedia by superfuture • The denim design lab kit • What is the difference between a $5 and a $500 pair of denim jeans? Jean and Top Designers. [ Bericht 0% gewijzigd door M1stral op 27-02-2012 19:24:21 ]
bokkepoot	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 21:47
	40 oz.? Dat is een tapijt man.. Ik vind vanaf 13 oz tot 24 wel prettig, maar daar ligt voor mij voorlopig de grens
M1stral	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 21:48
	quote: Op zaterdag 25 februari 2012 21:47 schreef bokkepoot het volgende: 40 oz.? Dat is een tapijt man.. Ik vind vanaf 13 oz tot 24 wel prettig, maar daar ligt voor mij voorlopig de grens Dat is meer een dubbelzinnige TT
xSanjay	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 21:50
	Ik hoorde ook dat bij de 32 oz van N&F al meerdere haren zijn afgebrand en dat knieholtes aan het bloeden waren . En Mistral, kun je me nu wel in OP zetten ?
bokkepoot	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 21:51
	quote: Op zaterdag 25 februari 2012 21:50 schreef xSanjay het volgende: Ik hoorde ook dat bij de 32 oz van N&F al meerdere haren zijn afgebrand en dat knieholtes aan het bloeden waren . En Mistral, kun je me nu wel in OP zetten ? Everything for the fades.. Ik wil wel een selvage denim vlag ofzo..Iemand enig idee waar je dat kan fixen?
M1stral	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 21:51
	Jawel x Sanjay, wat had je ook alweer een TF Liquid Indigo en N&F SG Natural Indigo toch?
xSanjay	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 21:54
	quote: Op zaterdag 25 februari 2012 21:51 schreef M1stral het volgende: Jawel x Sanjay, wat had je ook alweer een TF Liquid Indigo en N&F SG Natural Indigo toch? Yup, wel een dry liquid indigo
BigSmurf	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 21:58
	Lekkere dubbelzinnige TT inderdaad.
M1stral	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 22:00
	quote: Op zaterdag 25 februari 2012 21:58 schreef BigSmurf het volgende: Lekkere dubbelzinnige TT inderdaad. Had je mijn laatste post in vorig topic nog gezien betreffende die GT?
BigSmurf	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 22:13
	quote: Op zaterdag 25 februari 2012 22:00 schreef M1stral het volgende: [..] Had je mijn laatste post in vorig topic nog gezien betreffende die GT? Ja sorry, niet meer op gereageerd. De rise is hetzelfde volgens de measurements.
don-diablo	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 23:04
	Ik heb zelf een GT en die is voor mijn gevoel wat smaller in het topblock als een AJ. Beetje richting de SJ idd en vanaf de knieën als een TF. Nadeel van de GT zijn de hele kleine frontpockets. Kun je amper wat in kwijt. Voor de rest een prima slim fit.
don-diablo	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 23:07
	Al prefereer ik nu denk ik een weird Guy omdat die meer clean is en verkrijgbaar in meer leuke denim.
BigSmurf	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 23:31
	Maar als je de WG en GT vergelijkt, zit er dan veel verschil in qua fit?
don-diablo	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 23:44
	quote: Op zaterdag 25 februari 2012 23:31 schreef BigSmurf het volgende: Maar als je de WG en GT vergelijkt, zit er dan veel verschil in qua fit? Is niet helemaal fair om daar over te oordelen aangezien ik de weird Guy maar kort heb gepast en de GT al een tijdje niet meer aan heb gehad. De weird Guy zat voor m'n gevoel wat aansluitend waar m'n GT ruim bij de bovenbenen zit en ik veel ruimte over heb.
RinkeNL	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 23:45
	quote: Op zaterdag 25 februari 2012 21:50 schreef xSanjay het volgende: En Mistral, kun je me nu wel in OP zetten ? Second that. LVC 67 505 en Samurai S710XX graag.
Atta-boy	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 23:48
	Sam s710xx lijkt me ook nice! Leuke fit.
BigSmurf	zaterdag 25 februari 2012 @ 23:49
	quote: Op zaterdag 25 februari 2012 23:44 schreef don-diablo het volgende: [..] Is niet helemaal fair om daar over te oordelen aangezien ik de weird Guy maar kort heb gepast en de GT al een tijdje niet meer aan heb gehad. De weird Guy zat voor m'n gevoel wat aansluitend waar m'n GT ruim bij de bovenbenen zit en ik veel ruimte over heb. Dat geeft in ieder geval een indicatie, thanks.
RinkeNL	zondag 26 februari 2012 @ 13:19
	Weet iemand een kleermaker in Rotterdam die How to repair your jeans with Self Edge NYC darning gebruikt voor crotch repairs in plaats van de gebruikelijke lap stof die erachter wordt geplakt? Er zit een flink gat in m'n 505.
bokkepoot	zondag 26 februari 2012 @ 13:22
	Nee waarschijnlijk niet..
RinkeNL	zondag 26 februari 2012 @ 13:27
	Hmm, jammer. Het gat was namelijk juist veroorzaakt door een patch van een eerdere crotch rip, wat ervoor zorgde dat de stof aan de rand van de patch heel snel kapot ging.