ennn de lijst dus:
WaterDimethicone/silicone. Substance derived from silica (sand is a silica). The unique fluid properties of silicone give it a great deal of slip and in its various forms it can feel like silk on the skin, impart emolliency, and be a water-binding agent that holds up well, even when skin becomes wet. In other forms, it is also used extensively for wound healing and for improving the appearance of scars (Source: Journal of Wound Care, July 2000, pages 319–324).
Isododecane. A hydrocarbon ingredient used as a solvent. Isododecane enhances the spreadability of products and has a weightless feel on skin. All hydrocarbons used in cosmetics work to prevent the evaporation of water from skin.
Butylene Glycol/propylene glycol. Along with other glycols and glycerol, this is a humectant or humidifying and delivery ingredient used in cosmetics. There are Web sites and spam e-mails stating that propylene glycol is really industrial antifreeze and that it is the major ingredient in brake and hydraulic fluids. These sites also state that tests show it to be a strong skin irritant. They further point out that the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) on propylene glycol warns users to avoid skin contact because systemically (in the body) it can cause liver abnormalities and kidney damage. As ominous as this sounds, it is so far from the reality of cosmetic formulations that almost none of it holds any water or poses real concern. It is important to realize that the MSDS sheets are talking about 100% concentrations of a substance. Even water and salt have frightening comments regarding their safety according to the MSDS. In cosmetics propylene glycol is used in only the smallest amounts to keep products from melting in high heat or freezing when it is cold. It also helps active ingredients penetrate the skin. In the minute amounts used in cosmetics, it is not a concern in the least. Women are not suffering from liver problems because of propylene glycol in cosmetics. And finally, according to the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, within the Public Health Services Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry, "studies have not shown these chemicals [propylene or the other glycols as used in cosmetics] to be carcinogens" (Source:
www.atsdr.cdc.gov). See Paula's article, Propylene Glycol.
Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane---
glycerin. Also called glycerol; it is present in all natural lipids (fats), whether animal or vegetable. It can be manufactured by the hydrolysis of fats and by the fermentation of sugars. It can also be synthetically manufactured. For some time it was thought that too much glycerin in a moisturizer could pull water out of the skin instead of drawing it into the skin. That theory now seems to be completely unfounded. What appears to be true is that glycerin shores up the skin's natural protection by filling in the area known as the intercellular matrix and by attracting just the right amount of water to maintain the skin's homeostasis. There is also research indicating that the presence of glycerin in the intercellular layer helps other skin lipids do their jobs better (Sources: American Journal of Contact Dermatitis, September 2000, pages 165–169; and Acta Dermato-Venereologica, November 1999, pages 418–421). See intercellular matrix and natural moisturizing factors.
Laminarae saccharine extract/ algae. Algae are very simple, chlorophyll-containing organisms, in a family that includes more than 20,000 different known species. A number of these have been used for drugs, where they can work as anticoagulants, antibiotics, antihypertensive agents, blood cholesterol reducers, dilatory agents, insecticides, and anti-tumorigenic agents. In cosmetics, algae are used as thickening agents, water-binding agents, and antioxidants. Some algae are also potential skin irritants. For example, the phycocyanin found in blue-green algae has been suspected of allergenicity and of causing dermatitis on the basis of patch tests (Source: Current Issues in Molecular Biology, January 2002, pages 1–11). Other forms of algae, such as Irish moss and carrageenan, contain proteins, vitamin A, sugar, starch, vitamin B1, iron, sodium, phosphorus, magnesium, copper, and calcium. These are all useful as sources for skin care, either as emollients or antioxidants (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, February 2002, pages 840–845). However, the claims that algae can stop or eliminate wrinkling, heal skin, or provide other elaborate benefits are completely unsubstantiated.
Lactobacillus ferment---
Polygonum cuspidatum root extract. Extract of the Japanese knotweed plant. When eaten it may have weak estrogenic activity (Source: Bioorganic and Medicinal Chemistry Letters, July 2001, pages 1839–1842) and antitumor activity (Source: Journal of Nutrition, June 2001, pages 1844–1849). It also has antioxidant properties (Source: Biological & Pharmaceutical Bulletin, January 1995, pages 162–166).
Sacharomyces lysate/ yeast. Group of fungi that ferment sugars. Yeast is a source of betaglucan, which is considered a good antioxidant. A simple Internet search for brewer’s yeast (Latin name Saccharomyces cerevisiae), brings up over 85,000 references. Yeasts are basically fungi that grow as single cells, producing new cells either by budding or fission [splitting]. Because it reproduces well, Saccharomyces cerevisiae is the organism that is most widely used in biotechnology. Nevertheless, some forms of yeast are human pathogens, such as Cryptococcus and Candida albicans.
In relation to skin, there is limited information about how Saccharomyces cerevisiae may provide a benefit. Live yeast-cell derivatives have been shown to stimulate wound healing (Source: Archives of Surgery, May 1990, pages 641–646), but research like this is scant. Most of what is known about yeast is theoretical, and is about yeast’s tissue-repair and protective properties (Source: Global Cosmetic Industry, November 2001, pages 12–13), or yeast’s antioxidant properties (Source: Nature Genetics, December 2001, pages 426–434). As a skin-care ingredient yeast has potential, but what its function may be or how it would affect skin is not understood.
cucumber extract. Claims of cucumber having anti-inflammatory or soothing properties are anecdotal, as there is no research supporting this contention.
H
ordeum vulgare extract./ barley extract. From barley plants. Can have antioxidant properties when ingested, but there is no research showing this to be the case when applied topically (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food and Chemistry, March 2001, pages 1455–1463).
sunflower oil. Non-volatile plant oil used as an emollient in cosmetics.
caffeine. Since 1971 when the first Starbucks opened in my hometown of Seattle, I have been a coffee lover. And over the years I’ve developed a passion for Grande and Venti Lattes. I would be thrilled to learn that this has somehow helped my thighs, but alas, this is far from the case. Separate from my own anecdotal experience, caffeine is one of the more typical ingredients to show up in cellulite creams and lotions. There are two reasons for this. The first is caffeine’s distant relationship to aminophylline. Aminophylline is a modified form of theophylline (Source: Yale New Haven Health Library, Alternative/Complimentary Medicine,
www.yalenewhavenhealth.org), and caffeine contains theophylline (Source: Progress in Neurobiology, December 2002, pages 377–392). There is no research to prove or disprove that theophylline can affect cellulite. However, researchers have disproved aminophyilline’s impact on cellulite. The second reason caffeine may show up in cellulite products stems from research showing it to have benefit for weight loss. But that’s only when you drink it, not when you rub it on your thighs.
There are only two studies showing caffeine to have benefit for reducing cellulite. One was conducted by Johnson & Johnson, which owns the RoC and Neutrogena brands, both of which sell cellulite creams that contain caffeine. The other was conducted by cosmetics ingredients manufacturers that sell anti-cellulite compounds (Source: Journal of Cosmetic Science, July-August 2002, pages 209–218). There is no other independent research showing caffeine provides any benefit for treating cellulite.
Caffeine does have potential as an antioxidant, so it isn’t a wasted ingredient in skin-care products. It’s just not one that can reduce the appearance of cellulite. (Sources: BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine, March 2006,
http://www.biomedcentral.com/1472-6882/6/9; Bioscience, Biotechnology, and Biochemistry, November, 2005, pages 2219-2223; Obesity Research, July 2005, pages 1195-1204; and Sports Medicine, November 2001, pages 785-807)
trehalose. A plant sugar that has water-binding properties for skin.
sodium hyaluronate/ hyaluronic acid. Component of skin tissue that is used in skin-care products as a good water-binding agent. See natural moisturizing factors.
tocopheryl acetate/ vitamin E. Considered an antioxidant superstar. Vitamin E is a lipid-soluble vitamin (meaning it likes fat better than water) that has eight different forms, of which some are known for being excellent antioxidants when applied topically to skin, particularly alpha tocopherol and the tocotrienols (Sources: Current Problems in Dermatology, 2001, volume 29, pages 26–42; Free Radical Biology and Medicine, May 1997, pages 761–769; Journal of Nutrition, February 2001, pages 369S–373S; and International Journal of Radiation Biology, June 1999, pages 747–755). However, other studies have indicated the acetate form (tocopherol acetate) is also bioavailable and protective for skin (Source: Journal of Cosmetic Science, January-February 2001, pages 35–50). And still other research points to tocopherol sorbate as providing significant antioxidant protection against ultraviolet radiation–induced oxidative damage (Source: Journal of Investigative Dermatology, April 1995, pages 484–488). Pointing to the significance of vitamin E for skin is an article in the Journal of Molecular Medicine (January 1995, pages 7–17), which states: “More than other tissues, the skin is exposed to numerous environmental chemical and physical agents such as ultraviolet light causing oxidative stress [free-radical damage]. In the skin this results in several short- and long-term adverse effects such as erythema [redness], edema [swelling], skin thickening, wrinkling, and an increased incidence of skin cancer…. Vitamin E is the major naturally occurring lipid-soluble … antioxidant protecting skin from the adverse effects of oxidative stress including photoaging [sun damage]. Many studies document that vitamin E occupies a central position as a highly efficient antioxidant, thereby providing possibilities to decrease the frequency and severity of pathological events in the skin.” See Paula's article, Vitamin E.
chamomile. Herb that has research showing it to have anti-irritant, soothing, and antioxidant properties (Sources:
www.herbmed.org; European Journal of Drug Metabolism and Pharmacokinetics, October-December 1999, pages 303–308; and Planta Medica, October 1994, pages 410–413).
Polysilicone-11 (zie silicone eerdere genoemd)
silica. Mineral found abundantly in sandstone, clay, and granite, as well as in parts of plants and animals. It is the principal ingredient of glass. In cosmetics it is used as an absorbent powder and thickening agent.
propylene glycol. (eerder genoemd)
oleth/ surfactant. Acronym for surface active agent. Surfactants degrease and emulsify oils and fats and suspend soil, allowing them to be washed away, as laundry products do. I refer to these substances throughout my writing as “detergent cleansing agents.” Surfactants and detergent cleansing agents are often used interchangeably by chemists and researchers (Sources: Food and Drug Administration, Office of Cosmetics and Colors Fact Sheet, February 3, 1995,
www.fda.gov; Dermatology, 1995, volume 191, number 4, pages 276–280; Tenside, Surfactants, Detergents, 1997, volume 34, number 3, pages 156–168; and
http://surfactants.net). Surfactants are used in most forms of cleansers and many of them are considered gentle and effective for most skin types. There are several types of surfactants that can be sensitizing, drying, and irritating for skin.
aureth-23. Derived from lauryl alcohol and used either as a surfactant or emulsifier (or, in many cases, as both). See surfactant.
Laureth-4. Derived from lauryl alcohol and used either as a surfactant or emulsifier (or, in many cases, as both). See surfactant.
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer---
carbomers. Thickening agents used primarily to create gel-like formulations.
Tromethyamine ---
Disodium DTA. Abbreviation for ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid. It is a stabilizer used in cosmetics to prevent ingredients in a given formula from binding with trace elements (particularly minerals) that can exist in water and other ingredients to cause unwanted product changes such as texture, odor, and consistency problems. The technical term for this function is a chelating agent..
phenoxyethanol. Common cosmetic preservative that is considered one of the less irritating ones to use in formulations. It does not release formaldehyde. See preservatives.
Methyl parabens. Group of preservatives, including butylparaben, propylparaben, methylparaben, and ethylparaben. They are the most widely used group of preservatives found in cosmetics. It is estimated that more than 90% of all cosmetic products contain some form of paraben. They are considered to cause less irritation than some preservatives. There is research showing that in animal models (and in vitro) parabens can have weak estrogenic activity. Whether that poses any health risk for humans using cosmetics is unknown. The very technical findings of the study, which involved both oral administration and injection into rat skin, did show evidence of a weak estrogen effect on cells in a way that could be problematic for binding to receptor sites that may cause proliferation of MCF-7 breast cancer cells. The study concluded that “future work will need to address the extent to which parabens can accumulate in hormonally sensitive tissues and also the extent to which their weak oestrogenic activity can add to the more general environmental oestrogen problem.” (Source: Journal of Steroid Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, January 2002, pages 49–60).
Does this mean you should stop buying products that contain parabens? That’s a good question, but the answer isn’t simple or conclusive, even by the standards of the study itself. This is a potentially serious issue and the FDA is conducting its own research to determine what this means for human health (Source: The Endocrine Disruptor Knowledge Base (EDKB),
http://edkb.fda.gov/index.html). To keep the concern in perspective, it is important to realize that parabens are hardly the only substances that may have estrogenic effects on the body.
Any estrogen, including the estrogen our bodies produce, may bind to receptor sites on cells either strongly or weakly. Either this can stimulate the receptor to imitate the effect of our own estrogen in a positive way, or it can generate an abnormal estrogen response. Ironically, plant estrogens, or phytoestrogens (such as those found in soy), also produce chemicals that mimic estrogen. It is possible that a weak plant estrogen can help the body, but it can also be possible for a strong plant estrogen to make matters worse. For example, there is research that shows coffee to be a problem for fibrocystic breast disease. The reason for this is thought to be because coffee exerts estrogenic effects on breast cells (Sources: American Journal of Epidemiology, October 1996, pages 642–644; Journal of the American Medical Women’s Association, Spring 2002, pages 85–90;
www.som.tulane.edu/ecme/eehome/newsviews/whatsnew/archive/jan_dec2002.html).
A study in the Journal of Applied Toxicology (Volume 24, Issue 1, January-February 2004, pages 5-13) mentioned that “although recent reports of the oestrogenic properties of parabens have challenged current concepts of their toxicity in these consumer products, the question remains as to whether any of the parabens can accumulate intact in the body from the long-term, low-dose levels to which humans are exposed.” The study discussed the fact that traces of parabens have indeed been found in human breast tumors, but was quick to point out that it is unknown if this would be the same in healthy breast tissue. Parabens present in tumors may not be the causative factor but rather a result of parabens when cancer cells are present. See preservatives and Paula's article, Problems with Preservatives?.
Coloring